My Misadventures with the KRK Rokit 10-3: Follow-Up

It finally arrived. After two weeks, the new amp board is finally here and hopefully this solves the problem (not like anything else could be the problem since this is the entire backplane – haha).

Replacing this was much simpler than pulling the old backplane apart to replace caps. Remove screws, undo 3 wire pair plugs, replace board, re-connect plugs, and screw back in. Installation took all of 5 minutes and everything is working great.

I did take a look at the new board and old board side by side and it appears as though the new one is a different revision. Nothing major – just some small differences. The wires that come out of the black plastic box (this part houses all of the XLR, TRS, and RCA connectors for the rear panel, along with all of the dials and switches) exit in a different spot on the new panel. The power supply is also labeled differently. The old PSU says 34/17 on it and the new one says 29/15 – whatever that means. The main amp board PCB on the newer unit is a lighter green as well.

Here you can see both backplanes, the new one is on top. Other than the couple of things listed above, everything else is basically identical.

Hopefully the second unit doesn’t have the same issue as this one, and this was some kind of fluke with a random component somewhere on that backplane. I searched around online – a LOT – and couldn’t find anyone else that had posted similar problems with the Rokit 10-3’s. Still, I don’t dare throw the old board away, just in case a common thread appears and more of these start to fail, because inevitably, if that’s the case, someone will figure out how to fix it.

For now, I’m just happy the my stuff works again!

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